Tucked one street in from Hang Gai Street in Hanoi's Old Quarter, "Tam Thuong Alley (Ngo Tam Thuong)" is a narrow lane that packs with young people as evening falls. The draw is freshly fried fermented pork, "nem chua ran." Low stools are lined up in the tiny gaps between passing motorbikes, where students, office workers heading home, and couples huddle shoulder to shoulder, tucking into the piping-hot fried snacks. It is an alley food spot rarely found in guidebooks, packed with Hanoi's youth culture just as it is.
The sizzle echoing through the alley: the specialty nem chua ran
The shop at 36 Tam Thuong Alley is the star of this area. Its signature nem chua ran is fermented pork (nem chua) fried until fragrant. Crisp on the outside, with a pleasant tang and a chewy texture inside, it is dipped in Vietnam's classic chili sauce or garlic vinegar before eating. Various fried items, including fried spring rolls, are also popular, priced at 5,000 to 55,000 VND (about 30 to 330 yen) each, cheap enough to delight students. Order and they fry it right in front of you, so you can always enjoy it hot.
Huddled on low stools: a scene from a Hanoi night
The appeal of this alley lies not only in the flavor but in the atmosphere. Low plastic stools stand in for tables, and strangers sit back to back at close quarters. The scent of frying, the crackle of oil, and the laughter of young people echo through the lane, filling it with the dense air of Hanoi's street-stall culture. Open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., it can fill up completely, especially after evening. It is a place worth waiting for a seat, a spot beloved by locals.
A new trend to pair it with: egg ice cream
Once fried food has taken the edge off your hunger, don't miss the sweet treat making waves nearby. At 55B Hai Ba Trung Street, a shop serves "egg ice cream (kem danh trung)," an original creation by the owner. It is a rich dessert of whipped, frozen egg, priced at 25,000 to 30,000 VND (about 150 to 180 yen) each. Open from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Old-school alley food in the form of fried fermented pork, and a new sweet born from the younger generation. Being able to sample both old and new Hanoi street food in one evening is the fun of this area.
| Shop name | Nem chua ran, Tam Thuong Alley (Nem chua ran Ngo Tam Thuong) |
|---|---|
| Address | 36 Ngõ Tạm Thương, Hàng Gai, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội |
| Specialty | Nem chua ran (fried fermented pork), fried spring rolls, and various other fried dishes |
| Price guide | 5,000 to 55,000 VND (about 30 to 330 yen) per item |
| Hours | Daily 8:00 to 23:00 |
| Access | Just into the alley from Hang Gai Street in Hanoi's Old Quarter. An egg ice cream shop nearby (55B Hai Ba Trung, 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m.) |
Summary
The nem chua ran of Tam Thuong Alley is a staple of the alley food that Hanoi's young people still frequent. Savor the Old Quarter's night with freshly fried fermented pork, then finish with egg ice cream nearby: a local-eye Hanoi food crawl that guidebooks rarely capture. If you want to dig deeper into Hanoi's food scene, also check out the bold fine dining「ZAO」the hidden whisky bar「The Picker」and the award-winning bar「Workshop14」as well.
Source: PasGo
