A line in front of the cathedral, a butter-grilled dried squid stall lighting up Saigon's night

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On Nguyen Du Street in District 1 of Ho Chi Minh City, close to Saigon Cathedral (Notre-Dame Cathedral), a stall selling dried squid grilled with butter, garlic, and fish sauce—"Mực khô chiên nước mắm bơ tỏi"—draws a line night after night. It's run by Dao Huu The, 54, from Hue. He moved to Ho Chi Minh City in 1992 and began selling from a cart in early 1997.

It spread all at once when young customers posted it on social media. Around 5 p.m. when business begins, people gather and a line forms to wait for orders.

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A famous stall in front of the cathedral

The stall stands on Nguyen Du Street in District 1, beside Saigon Cathedral. Mr. The opens around 5 p.m. and sells out more than 10 kilograms of dried squid in a single night. Because orders pour in, an assistant records customers' names and orders on a handwritten list.

A 30-minute line and social media spread

Because of its popularity, customers sometimes wait up to about 30 minutes. The spark was young customers' social media posts, whose photos and videos spread and led to lines night after night. The very sight of handling the queue with a handwritten list has become a signature of the stall.

Price and what's in a serving

The signature item is dried squid grilled with butter, garlic, and fish sauce. The prices are as follows.

Item Amount (VND) Approximate yen conversion
Price per serving 100,000–160,000 VND About 570–910 yen
The premium dried squid sourced (cost) About 1.3 million VND/kg About 7,400 yen/kg
Sold per night Over 10 kg

* Converted at 10,000 VND ≒ about 57 yen.

The owner's commitment

Mr. The is strongly committed to quality. He says, "I use fresh oil every time and carefully wash the pan each round," not reusing frying oil and thoroughly cleaning the pan between batches. His use of premium-grade dried squid also shows in the high cost.

If you're a traveler visiting

The area around Saigon Cathedral is a classic sightseeing zone, easy to drop by along with a nighttime stroll. Around 5 p.m., when business begins, the line is relatively short; if you want to avoid the peak crowd, aim for an early time. This street-food dish using premium, high-cost squid is one to remember when eating your way through a Saigon night.

Summary

Mr. The's stall, running since 1997, is again in the spotlight thanks to social media. The steadfast "don't reuse the oil" commitment kept by the Hue-born owner is the foundation of the nightly lines. Along with the lights in front of the cathedral, it's becoming established as a signature of Saigon nights.

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Source:VietnamNet / VietnamNet (eating your way through Saigon)

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Author of this article

In my third year living in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. I launched this specialist Vietnam travel information site hoping to share local knowledge you simply can’t get by visiting as a tourist — the kind of thing you only understand by being here.

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