A chef back from training in French cuisine flies the banner of "fun dining"
On Ngo Hue Street in Hanoi's Hai Ba Trung District, a restaurant that shakes up the conventions of Vietnamese cuisine is born. "ZAO – Vietnamese Rooted Eatery" is the latest concept from chef Cuong, who honed his craft at French fine dining establishments in Da Nang, Ho Chi Minh City, and Phu Quoc.
He calls this place not "fine dining" but "fun dining." Striking a balance between refinement and approachability, he reconstructs the ingredients of Vietnam's coast with modern techniques. If it's your first visit, first book a seat at the first-floor kitchen counter. The live feel of the cooking is captured in the dish just as it is.
Featured menu: moray eel, shrimp, all of it Vietnam's sea
ZAO's menu is composed like a journey through Vietnam's coastline by ingredient. The signature "ZAO Shrimp" is a plate of live tiger prawn with shaved ice and a spicy Thai-style granita. The shrimp's sweetness, the ice's cold, and the chili's kick come at you in three layers.
| Menu | Characteristics | Recommendation level |
|---|---|---|
| ZAO Shrimp | Tiger prawn x shaved ice x Thai-style granita | Must-eat |
| Moray eel fettuccine | Moray eel (Moray Eel) in house-made pasta | Must-eat |
| Razor clam pate | Razor clam pate, spread on bread to eat | Recommended |
| ZAO Steak | Vietnamese beef with French technique | Recommended |
| ZAO Seasar | ZAO's take on Caesar salad | As a side |
| Tiramisu | An original version using Vietnamese coffee | A must for dessert |
A two-floor layout you can use for different purposes
The first floor has counter seats at an open kitchen. You get a "theatrical" dining experience where you can see the chef's hands at work. The second floor is an intimate dining space for enjoying wine and spirits, suited to anniversaries and dates.
Reactions on social media
- "I'd never thought of making moray eel into pasta. The texture is different from squid and different from fish." (Instagram food review)
- "The ZAO Shrimp combination of shaved ice and shrimp, I hesitated at first, but one bite and I got it." (Facebook group Dining Review)
- "Using Vietnamese coffee in the tiramisu is genius. I come all the way from District 2 just for this." (Google review)
A guide for Japanese travelers
It's within a 10-minute walk of Hoan Kiem Lake, and close toFairmont Hanoitoo. For reservations, a DM to Instagram @zao.eatery is the surest bet.
TasteAtlas's Vietnamese noodle rankingIt's the polar opposite approach from the traditional dishes that make lists like this, but it shares a deep respect for Vietnamese ingredients.Now that Moca Dining has closed,ZAO is the leading candidate for Hanoi's next-generation dining.
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Address | 4 Ngo Hue, Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi |
| Hours | 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. (daily) |
| Budget | About 1.5 to 2.5 million VND for two (about 8,800 to 14,700 yen) |
| How to book | Instagram @zao.eatery DM / Facebook @zao.eatery |
| Access | About a 10-minute walk from Hoan Kiem Lake |
| Chef | Cuong (from French fine dining) |
The "modern Vietnamese" current in Hanoi's dining scene
ZAO's arrival shows that Hanoi's dining scene has begun moving in a direction beyond just "cheap and tasty." The attempt to reinterpret the ingredients of Vietnam's coast with French technique was ahead in Ho Chi Minh City, but is still rare in Hanoi. Together with Workshop14, which won an award at the same time, Hanoi's nights are surely beginning to change.
Summary: experience "fun dining" at the first-floor counter
The tension of fine dining isn't needed. Come in a T-shirt and sandals, and eat moray eel fettuccine while watching Cuong's hands across the counter. That's the right way to use ZAO. It's well worth putting on your dinner shortlist in Hanoi's Old Quarter.
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